How You Can Best Select the Proper Suit for Your Body Type
Let’s face it – by the time you decide to invest in a suit, your body type is pretty much set. And even if your waist or your chest may change over time, you still have the same height, limb length, and shoulder-width – this won’t change once you reach a certain age. So with all this in mind, you will have a particular body type when you go for your first fitting, especially if you are aiming for a bespoke suit, and your tailor will take your body type into major consideration when they are creating a suit for you. But it’s also up to you – you have to decide on particular elements which may or may not flatter your body type, so it’s best if you know what works with your body – and what doesn’t. Here, then, is how you can best select the proper suit for your body type.
For shorter men
For shorter men, the key is to create or show an impression of a taller stature or height – and for this, one of the first things you should do is avoid the use of excessive cloth. If there is too much cloth in your suit, this will add to its bulk, and it will also emphasize your shortness. A close-fitting suit is best.
When it comes to style, go with soft or moderate padding on your shoulders, and just settle for a slight drape on your chest. Perhaps you could just go with a jacket with either one or two buttons which button up at a lower point. Also, the sweep of the lapel of the suit from your neck to your waist is the suit’s strongest line, so keep this in mind if you want to flatter your body type. That being said, keep this line long and close the jacket as well. The waist of your jacket should also be suppressed or kept pretty close so you can use a minimum amount of cloth in this area.
The length of your trousers will, however, have a greater impact on the impression of height, as any good bespoke tailor will tell you. Ideally, your trouser waist should be set high, preferably at your belly button or even higher. You should also stay away from bulky elements such as large pockets, patch pockets, and ticket pockets.
For taller men
For taller men, the idea is to have everything for shorter men – but in reverse. It’s best to ‘interrupt’ your overall look with pockets, and accentuate your suit with a belt, trouser cuffs, and brogues so you can have more texture. You can also make use of pocket-handkerchiefs so the viewer’s eye will be thrown sideways, and rather than wearing a regular silk tie with your bespoke suit, why not go for a shantung silk one or a tie made from textured wool?
You can also choose to pair the suit with a waistcoat and break your arm length with a watch. It would also be good to have your sleeves a bit shorter; this way, you can show a half-inch of the cuff which can also break up your lines. Additionally, if you are also stout, you should dress for your body type and consider how you can flatter it as well.